The fashion industry is one of the largest polluters in the world after fossil fuels and agriculture. The fashion industry’s main operating model is the problem, stepping up the pace of design and production as part of what is now called “fast fashion.” So let’s take a deeper dive into how your garments may be impacting the environment and of course, what you may be able to do in order to leave a lighter footprint on this planet when choosing your clothes.

• Every year the fashion industry uses 93 billion cubic meters of water (the second largest consumer of the world’s water supply) — enough to meet the consumption needs of five million people.

• Around 20 % of wastewater worldwide comes from fabric dyeing and treatment.

  Approximately 85% of clothing ends up in landfills or in incinerators, where it produces even more harmful gases and chemicals, impacting air, groundwater and soil quality. To understand what this looks like, it’s approximately a garbage truck of clothing every second!

• The fashion industry is responsible for 10 % of annual global carbon emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined.

• Every year a half a million tons of plastic microfibers are dumped into the ocean, the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles.

• 35% of the microplastics in the ocean come from our clothing

• Less than 1 % of used clothing is recycled into new garments.

Once upon a time…

Now, we are by no means suggesting that we return to the days of fig leaves as clothes. Clothing does after all serve many purposes: it can help protect us from various types of weather, and can improve safety by providing a barrier between the skin and the environment. However it is clearly obvious that by looking at the statistics above that the fashion industry nor its consumers, can continue on this well-trodden path. Change is necessary, particularly when we think about the type of condition we wish to leave this planet for our future generations.

THE BIG ISSUE WITH USING SYNTHETIC FIBRES IN CLOTHING

A major issue regarding the fashion industry comes from the use of man-made synthetic fibres. Today, around 60 per cent of materials that are used to make clothes are made from fibres such as polyester, acrylic, lycra and nylon. These fibres are derived from fossil-fuels and are favoured for being lightweight, durable, versatile and affordable, however every time clothes made from these synthetic fibres are washed, they shed tiny plastic fibres called microplastics - defined as particles of plastic fragment smaller than 5mm - a problem which has been identified as a major contributor to the pollution of oceans and a hazard not only to marine ecosystems and the environment, but also to human health.

According to studies, 35% of microplastics found in the oceans can be attributed to the washing of synthetic garments as these micro particles are not captured or filtered by washing machines or the wastewater treatment plants. Toxic substances adhere to surface plastics and when they reach the ocean, marine wildlife such as fish ingest them, and ultimately humans further up the food chain. The pollutants that plastic attracts, the toxins and chemicals, are bad for our health. These pollutants have been linked to reproduction, developmental, behavioural, neurologic, endocrine and immunologic issues in humans, while the chemicals leached from plastic through heat, such as phthalates and bisphenol have been linked to hormone disruption, heart disease and cancer. Those wearing clothes made from synthetic fibres have even been known to develop psoriasis!

Currently there are no industry-wide standards or regulations on textile-related microplastics release, and it is therefore challenging for the industry to measure the real impact and scope of the problem and find meaningful solutions.

It’s NOT JUST CLOTHING, BUT TEXTILES IN GENERAL…

The issue of textiles shedding microplastics has not been given as much thought, as the manufacturing impacts in the fashion industry, due to the issue being an after-sales concern, and one which is focussed on the lifecycle of the garment. However, for the fashion industry to consider its environmental performance, it needs to comprehensively think about the environmental impacts on the consumer side, too. Sustainability is mentioned all too frequently in the fashion industry now, however, the full lifecycle from supply chain to consumption needs to be taken into consideration.

The problem therefore is not just one for the fashion industry, but in textiles generally, including home textiles such as bedding, linen and towels, all of which shed microplastics when washed.  

What can we do?

Some leading brands are working to identify fiber alternatives and develop more eco-friendly processes.

Technology and research are playing a key role in making the industry more sustainable. Natural dyes are replacing chemicals, fruit skins are substituting furs, and backpacks and purses are getting made out of discarded canvas. Some companies have a return policy so they can recycle the consumers’ garments after use.

While a lot still needs to be done, it is encouraging that some companies are becoming involved when a decade ago there was little talk of sustainable fashion. 

To make the garment industry more sustainable, all actors must get involved, from designers to manufacturers, critics, and consumers. Without consumers making a change, efforts are in vain. Here’s some ways that YOU can make a difference:

• Look for clothes that are made from natural fibers such as cotton, linen, silk, coir, ramie, kapoc, angora and wool.

• Do your due diligence. Research online or ask before buying, if the manufacturers use a sustainable criteria to make the clothing item. Our UAE Sustainable Fashion Directory can be a source of information for those in the UAE.

• Support brands and companies doing their best to offset the impacts of textiles on the environment

• Recycle or donate clothing

• Swap or exchange clothes!

• For special occasions that require a new outfit, consider renting your clothes

• Repair clothing if possible to make them last longer.

• Buy only what you need. In some countries, 40% of purchased clothing is never used.

• Consider quality over quantity. Every additional year a garment is worn means less pollution. Cheap clothing often doesn't survive the wash cycle, meaning that in the long run you don’t save money compared with buying better quality garments.

• Buy second-hand clothing.

• Be a smart laundry manager — wash full loads and use non-abrasive detergents, for example.

• Wash less. Fabrics that have been washed many times will shed more microfibres than they did when new. Front load washing machines have been found to reduce microfibre shedding.

• Washing bags such as the one developed by guppyfriend can reduce microfibre release by 86 per cent and captures the microfibres that do break free.

• The Cora Ball can be added to loads of laundry to collect microfibres. The company says that if 10 per cent of U.S. households used Cora Ball, it would prevent the equivalent of 30 million water bottles from entering waterways per year.

• Retrofitting old laundry machines with a microfibre-catching device, such as the Lint LUV-R washing machine discharge filter, can capture fibres before they enter the environment.

References:

• https://cdnmedia.eurofins.com/corporate-eurofins/media/12153090/eurofins_sl___microplastics_from_textile_sources_-aug_2020.pdf

• https://www.worldbank.org/en/news/feature/2019/09/23/costo-moda-medio-ambiente#:~:text=Every%20year%20the%20fashion%20industry,needs%20of%20five%20million%20people.&text=The%20fashion%20industry%20is%20responsible,flights%20and%20maritime%20shipping%20combined.

• https://www.patagonia.com/stories/an-update-on-microfiber-pollution/story-31370.html

• https://www.unenvironment.org/es/node/24585

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